Puleeeze – I’ve been doing the “we’re stopping and we’re not moving until the leash is loose” crap for MONTHS with my 10 month old and he STILL immediately lunges to the end of the lead and pulls the instant I start moving again. When it’s tight and I stop he turns to look at me, excitedly, and loosen sometimes, but the instant I move he’s jerking me along again. Apparently the consequence of not moving isn’t severe enough, so moving up to a choke chain because I’m tired of his crap. I’ve had 2 MRIs and a trip to the ER because of injuries caused when he’s seen a cat (I have to walk two puppies at the same time at least once a day – at least she’s smaller and more easily reigned in).
Dog breeding is a very long process. Out of a litter of 10 usually only 3 pups will be qualified to go through our rigorous training which leaves us with 7 pups that we need to adopt out, another long process. For this reason we use professional breeders and vendors and import dogs so that we can spend our time on the most important aspect, training your dog for your needs.
APDT recommend continuing to use the same gestures and the same tone of voice for your commands as you’ve been using so far to maintain continuity for your pup. And this makes perfect sense for all training.
The two dogs (Jack Russell mix) that do this are related-by-blood, they’re brothers from the same litter (aged 7yrs) and they get on well…They’re both hyper active and easily excitable. The third is a recent addition to the family, he’s a pure-bred Jack Russell (8 months) and he’s a lot more calmer than the brothers. I have no problems with him on the lead but I would love to walk them as a group, something I used to do years ago before the brother’s hyper-barking became too much. :/
This is the term used by some veterinarians and trainers to refer to dogs who go crazy when left alone, attempting to destroy their surroundings, barking and crying uncontrollably, and otherwise causing havoc.
Think of a lab chasing a ball – it doesn’t feel threatened as it chases after its ball. When a dog is biting 100% in prey it too doesn’t feel threatened. The dog’s body posture during prey drive is alert, with its tail it up or wagging, (this is probably the easiest thing for new trainers to spot), there is no hair up on the dog’s back while biting in prey and it is not growling or showing its teeth. The prey bark is a higher pitched insistent bark. A dog when barking in prey does not sound or look nervous or stressed.
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When first holding the leash, do not attempt to get him to walk at heel yet. If he does that naturally, great, but if he doesn’t do not be tempted to yank on the leash to get him to do so. Do everything calmly and gently. Sometimes even just standing still or kneeling down while he figures out what is happening is a good idea.
When we talk about avoidance, we also need to talk about being hesitant. There is a difference. Being hesitant is when a dog takes a step back to evaluate what’s going on when he is stressed. This usually happens with young dogs that are raised to a new level of stress. Being hesitant is not bad, in fact, it is actually good. Because when the dog overcomes his hesitation and learns how to deal with the new situation, it comes away a stronger, more confident dog.
Whether you’re interested in training basics for your puppy or adult dog, resolving problem behaviors or teaching tricks, KHS has a class for you and your dog. View our calendar of upcoming training classes.